A 1935 Bulova Ambassador art-deco engraved, hinged-back wristwatch
by C. Bradley Jacobs
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This is a 1935 Bulova that belonged to a great-uncle of mine and was given to me in 1997 or 1998 when I was a beginning collector. At the time it was a remarkable acquisition for me and spurred my hunger for collecting classic Bulovas of that era.
![](http://members.aol.com/watchcareb/Bul04.jpg)
The watch is in decent condition, though there is a fair amount of brassing to the hooded lugs. My uncle wore it a great deal but I am surprised how the vintage alligator straps have held up. I doubt that they are original, but they add a touch of antiquity to the watch that a newer strap and buckle combination definitely lacks. As the photos show, this is a hinged-case model. The material used for the back is not marked, and it is a lightweight metal that feels like aluminum. I suppose it is simply very thin steel. The bezel is 10k rolled gold plate and features typical art-deco scrollwork engraving. The combination of scrollwork, stepped sides and hooded lugs is a tour-de-force of styling cues from that era and not many Bulova (or other) watches have all of these elements. According to the Faber and Unger book “American Wristwatches --Five Decades of Style & Design,” this watch is the Ambassador model (p. 82 bottom left). The watch pictured in the book is almost identical to mine except for the markers on the dial. In 1998 I visited Mr. Unger’s shop in Manhattan and saw the same model watch in their sales showcase. Apparently, NYC retail value of the watch was nearly $700…and the dial on the model offered for sale was not nearly so clean as mine. Interestingly, the watch Mr. Unger was selling had a rolled gold plate case back unlike the white metal back on my watch.
![](http://members.aol.com/watchcareb/Bul05.jpg)
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The dial is in original condition and features applied gold numerals and BULOVA lettering, painted minutes and sub-seconds chapters and gold hands. The crystal is glass and domed.
![](http://members.aol.com/watchcareb/Bul03.jpg)
The movement is the Swiss-made, 15-jewel, adjusted caliber 10AE. I have absolutely no idea when this was last serviced…if at all, it was probably prior to the 1950s because my uncle also had a 1951 Bulova that was worn through almost to the movement and I do not think he wore this 1930s model much after the early 1950s. Nonetheless, when I do wind the watch (not often, I plan to have it serviced!) it runs smoothly and is pretty accurate.
![](http://members.aol.com/watchcareb/Bul02.jpg)
The dimensions of the watch are 37mm long by 24mm wide (+ crown) and about 6mm high. The caseback has a slight “curvex”-type arc to it, but nothing extreme. All-in-all it is a smart-looking watch that, although it does not fall into a fashionable category according to today’s tastes is indicative of the stylistic trends of the 1930s. It would make an excellent watch for a woman with a sense of retro style, but I doubt many men will favor such timepieces for a few years to come judging by the popularity of huge and sporty watches today. Regardless, as a family heirloom, I will continue to treasure it and hope that someday it will again suit my own needs and again be worn.
Thanks for looking!
Brad
![](http://www.fototime.com/95FA5A4C4007705/standard.jpg)
Note: Some photos from August 2004...
Some time ago I acquired a white gold filled example and another yellow gold filled example of this model of Bulova watch, both have since been sold. Some additional photos are included for your enjoyment:
![](http://www.fototime.com/ED43B76BDF76941/orig.jpg)
![](http://www.fototime.com/FA343BECCD72BAD/orig.jpg)
![](http://www.fototime.com/7F8104B13567AB6/orig.jpg)
![](http://www.fototime.com/99D919F6AA6E26F/orig.jpg)