">

WATCH COLLECTING

Favre-Leuba Sea Raider 36000 - Ref. 36003

Photo by the author

Brand: Favre-Leuba
Model:
 Sea Raider 36000 
Ref.: 36003 A
Issued: Ca. 1972
Case: Stainless steel with special snap-together construction
Crystal: Model-specific acrylic
Bracelet: Stepped NSA 3-row with F-L logo on flat clasp
Movement: FL 1164, 21 jewels, gilt, with Triovis regulator

Description: This is an all-original F-L Sea Raider wristwatch with hi-beat movement running at 36,000 vibrations per hour (ticking at 1/10th second).

The present example has a steel case with signed back (marked with reference number). The original bracelet by Novavit S.A. steps down in width from 22mm to 18mm and has a signed clasp (F-L hourglass logo). The case of this model shows crisp edges, indicating is has never been polished and, though there are some scuffs and obvious signs of use, is very well preserved for a nearly 50-year old timepiece. Favre-Leuba’s Sea Raider series uses case construction very similar to that of the Rado Manhattan and, indeed, this example is very similar in style to the second series of Manhattan (known as Manhattan V). For more information on how these remarkable cases snap together and use an integrated moulded crystal and rectangular gaskets to preserve water-tightness, please see my article on vintage Rado automatics. As this watch is running very well, and the integrity of the o-rings and other structural components appears to be fully intact, I have chosen not to open this watch for inspection and photography.

Based on info from Favre-Leuba, the movement in this watch is presumed to be an FL1164 (more information via this link), which is the day-date version of the 1162 found in the date-only Favre-Leuba Chronometer 36000. This family of movements was reportedly created via a joint venture between Doxa, Eberhard, Favre-Leuba, Girard-Perregaux, and Zodiac, and based on the A. Schild caliber 1687. Fine regulation of the FL1164 is via the Triovis method.

Dimensions of the watch case are as follows:
Width (without crown): 37.5 mm
Length: 37 mm
Height (including crystal): 11.5 mm
Lug width: 23.5 mm (bracelet end piece fills this; first link in bracelet is 22 mm)
Case diagonal: 50 mm
Dial width: 30 mm
Dial length: 21 mm
Dial diagonal: 36 mm

Pictured below is an original Favre-Leuba Sea Raider box, which is not present with this watch. Made by Cartolux S.A., this is a roughly square multi-piece sliding box that has lots of FL imagery and exhibits strong similarities to the longer, narrower box seen with another FL from this period, the ca. 1970 Chronometer 36000.

Photos: click for larger

Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author

Period catalogue images provided by rado_jp:

Photo courtesy Favre-Leuba Watch Company Photo courtesy Favre-Leuba Watch Company Photo courtesy rado_jp Photo courtesy rado_jp Photo courtesy rado_jp

 

This watch is available for purchase.
Please use the e-mail link below for enquiries. 



Text and images © C. Bradley Jacobs, WatchCarefully.com, unless otherwised credited

www.watchcarefully.com

 

MEDANA pocket watches, powered by the unusually shaped MST Cal. 369.
More text and images coming soon...

Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author 

 

These watches have been sold.

Photo courtesy Der SpiegelBrand: Marvin
Model:
Chronometer Victory
Ref.: unknown
Issued: 1963
Case: Stainless steel with screw back
Crystal: Acrylic
Bracelet: n/a
Movement: Cal. 620A, 17 jewels, Geneva stripes, chronometer numbered & certified

Description:
Pictured herein is a 1963 MARVIN Chronometer Victory with original box, made by the famous MARVIN S.A. watch company, at the peak of their independent production. This features a steel screw-back case (with waterproof sea-star logo) and the in-house movement Caliber 620A, with 4-digit chronometer certification number. Unfortunately, the chronometer certificate is not present, but the original box is. It is worth noting that, as with Rado and many other makers of that era, non-chronometer movements were not marked chronometer on the dial, nor did they have numbered movements. This also has the correct Marvin crown, signed with their crown logo. The entire package is in very good original condition--it has not been polished nor tampered with. Per the timing machine info below, you can see that the watch is running very accurately (most recent service date unknown).

The dimensions are: 34 mm diameter, 9 mm thick with domed crystal, 17mm lug width

Original price in 1963: 196 Deutschmarks

To see some excellent photos of a very well preserved Marvin 620A wristwatch (and dozens of other significant timepieces), visit the site of my friend SteveG.

Photos: click for larger

Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo courtesy Hamilton Watch Company Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author 

 

Period advertising images found on the web:
If you assert the copyright to these, please contact me and I'll be glad to assign appropriate image credits.

 Photo courtesy Marvin Watch Company P P 


Text and images © C. Bradley Jacobs, WatchCarefully.com unless otherwise credited
www.watchcarefully.com

Favre-Leuba Chronometer 36000 - Ref. 36503

Photo by the author

Brand: Favre-Leuba
Model:
 Chronometer 36000 
Ref.: 36503
Issued: Ca. 1970
Case: Stainless steel with screw back
Crystal: Acrylic
Bracelet: NSA 3-row with F-L logo on clasp
Movement: FL 1162, 21 jewels, gilt, with precision regulator and chronometer number

Description: This is a rare F-L chronometer-certified wristwatch with hi-beat movement running at 36,000 vibrations per hour (ticking at 1/10th second).

The present example has a steel case with signed screw back (marked with reference number). The original bracelet by Novavit (NSA) has a signed clasp (F-L hourglass logo) and fitted end-pieces. At the time of writing (Aug 2020), the watch has just received complete movement service and the finish of the case has been restored nearly to like-new condition.

The original Favre-Leuba display box, equally rare (if not more so), is present with this watch. Made by Cartolux S.A., this is a multi-piece sliding box that has lots of FL imagery and can be propped up to display the watch or closed to lay flat. It includes the tagline “ça c’est Favre-Leuba”.

Photos: click for larger

Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author Photo by the author

Period catalogue images provided by Favre-Leuba Watch Co., and rado_jp:

Photo courtesy Favre-Leuba Watch Company Photo courtesy Favre-Leuba Watch Company Photo courtesy rado_jp Photo courtesy rado_jp Photo courtesy rado_jp

 

This watch is available for purchase, with all pictured accessories, for $1500 US.
Please use the e-mail link below for enquiries. 



Text and images © C. Bradley Jacobs, WatchCarefully.com, unless otherwised credited

www.watchcarefully.com

Grieb & Benzinger Platinum Watches

by C. Bradley Jacobs
Originally published in International Watch, August 2010

 ↔

In the world of horology, myriad buzzwords and fleeting trends circulate, but there are few concepts that true watch connoisseurs respect so much as ‘quality’ and ‘exclusivity.’ A novel venture in Germany, featuring some of the most respected names in the business, is providing these to a small and privileged clientele through the Grieb & Benzinger Platinum line. In recent years, Hermann Grieb and Jochen Benzinger have been producing one-of-a-kind timepieces that combine fine vintage movements with world-class decorative artistry. Photo courtesy G&BTheir aim to create the industry’s most interesting and exclusive products has led them to join forces with their friend Georg Bartkowiak, an experienced design and technical consultant to the watch industry. This trio is presently offering watches unlike anything available elsewhere: truly unique bespoke watches based upon historic high-grade complicated movements that are expertly modified, decorated, and housed in solid platinum cases.

An example of their work—the brand plans to offer no more than 10 watches annually—contains a 19th-century minute repeater caliber provided by Patek Philippe for Tiffany. The movement was restored for 4 months by Hermann Grieb, who modified it to a regulator display. For this watch and all others in the Platinum line, components needed for the modification are produced in-house by Herman Grieb. Grieb & Benzinger Platinum watches do not reply upon outside parts sources, nor do they depend upon modern manufacturing techniques. According to Mr. Bartkowiak, Hermann Grieb “uses the same techniques & tools to restore the watch that were available the days when the historic movements were built originally. This is pure watch-making in the spirit of Abraham-Louis Breguet.” To the modern mind, this singular concept may sound potentially limiting, but Grieb & Benzinger prefer to view it as opening up the possibilities envisioned by the masters of previous ages.

Grieb & Benzinger Platinum watches are also distinguished by the use of a stunning blue movement plate. This is a proprietary technique of blue platinum coating which was developed in homage of Charles Oudin, the student of A-L Breguet known for producing blue plates in the early 1800s. Photo courtesy G&BThe decoration of G&B Platinum watches is provided by Jochen Benzinger utilizing a variety of techniques such as hand engraving, skeletonization and guilloché, the latter produced via a veritable museum of antique rose engines restored and maintained by Mr. Benzinger.

As is obvious from the dedication and focus of their makers, Grieb & Benzinger Platinum watches represent the execution of a complete vision for producing the finest wristwatches available. The client who commissions such a machine is integral in the conception and delivery of a tailor-made unique item, even to the extent of choosing the movement which will be transformed to the heart of the remarkable timepiece, of assisting with decorative design or perhaps mechanical layout. For such offerings, Mr. Grieb has been very selective in procuring an assortment of very fine and historic movements of the highest quality from such makers as Patek, LeCoultre, and Lange, many of which are repeaters or rattrapante chronographs. His preservation and reinterpretation of the original movement is merely the beginning of a painstaking process of remarkable transformation in which each contributor’s efforts are significant.

As the name suggests, the Grieb & Benzinger Platinum line features cases of that noble material as well as the high level of execution; only solid platinum cases are used. The cases are fashioned from solid platinum with no soldering of lugs or other elements. The minute repeater shown here has a case containing over 130 grams of platinum. According to Mr. Bartowiak, “this watch features the most solid platinum case on the market.”

Connoisseurs wishing to explore their options may contact Grieb & Benzinger directly or visit the brand’s representatives, of whom five will be named worldwide. Les Ambassadeurs in Switzerland is the first. Home service is available for consultation on the project and pricing of G&B Platinum pieces depends on the level of execution but generally start in the range of six figures (Euros). New pieces are continually being developed, such as a modified minute repeater with additional functions and a modified split second chronograph, expected to be available this summer. Before the end of 2010 the brand plans in to introduce a proprietary tourbillon movement—developed entirely in-house. The most current information is available by contacting Grieb & Benzinger via www.grieb-benzinger.de.

 


Photo courtesy G&B
To read about watches by Jochen Benzinger, including having a custom watch bulit, please csee my article here.


Text © C. Bradley Jacobs, WatchCarefully.com; images © Grieb & Benzinger
www.watchcarefully.com

 

 

<center><a href="/http://www.watchcarefully.com"><img src="/http://www.fototime.com/65F8CB439C0B36F/standard.jpg" border=0 alt="Click here to return to the index of articles at WatchCarefully.com"></a>
<BR><h1><font color=brown>A Large, Soviet-Made Split Timer</h1>
<P>by C. Bradley Jacobs</center>
<P>
<B>Today’s featured timer is a Russian-made “Slava” split-timer.</b> Slava is the anglicized spelling of something that looks more like Craba on the dial. You can see by the photos that this is quite a beast. I’ve photographed it with a dress-size generic Swiss pocket watch to give some idea of how this thing compares to other pocket and hand-held timepieces. Some of the photos below show the actual measurements on a set of calipers.
<P><center>
<BR><img src="/http://www.fototime.com/2727BB8A4822D68/orig.jpg">
<BR>~
<BR>~
<BR>~
<BR><img src="/http://www.fototime.com/95F4312D61C3496/orig.jpg">
<BR>Compared to a dress-size pocket watch
<BR></CENTER>
<P><P ALIGN=JUSTIFY>I bought this timer around 1999 on e-Bay and at the time it was the only one like it I had seen. Now, they are more readily available and seem to be offered for anywhere between $50. and $115. For the higher price, you generally get a wooden storage box. This is by far the largest timer in my current collection (it was rivaled by some Omegas I recently sold—see image at bottom). It’s about 20mm thick and 65mm in diameter.
<P><CENTER>
<BR><img src="/http://www.fototime.com/88E656904DA8D20/orig.jpg">
<P></CENTER>
<P><P ALIGN=JUSTIFY>
<BR>The case is either steel or nicely chromed base metal, it’s not marked but has held a nice shine during my ownership of it. The case has a screw-ring that holds down a large back plate…not unlike some 1960s Bulova automatics I’ve seen. The crystal appears to be plastic, and is domed slightly.
<P><P ALIGN=JUSTIFY>
<BR>The dial is really quite nicely made. It’s brushed silver from the center out and has painted-on markings that are even and rather thick. In the photo above you can see the hands, which are on such a tall set of pinions that they can only be referred to as a “stack.” The folks making the hands were generous with the paint…to the point that I wonder if the hands are contributing to the total amount of friction the movement must overcome. I jest, but these things are thick.
<P><CENTER>
<P><img src="/http://www.fototime.com/FA9B13B825210A5/orig.jpg">
<P></CENTER>
<P><P ALIGN=JUSTIFY>
<BR>The movement is a 20-jewel monster. Made by the 2nd Moscow Watch Factory. From what I’ve heard of Russian movement designs, this is probably derived from a design that was "appropriated" from the Swiss or Germans after WWII, although some Swiss companies such as Venus did sell, apparently to Russian and Chinese companies, the tooling and rights to produce their older movements. However, I would not be surprised if this is mostly a Soviet design…there is a lot of wasted space.
<P><CENTER>
<P><img src="/http://www.fototime.com/FFE13C1B0F50EEC/orig.jpg">
<P></CENTER>
<P><P ALIGN=JUSTIFY>
<BR>It runs at 36,000 vph and so is a 1/10-second timer. The crown is for winding and start/stop (it is harder to click than any timer I’ve ever used); the left-hand button stops and re-sets the split hand; the right-hand button resets the main second hand and the minute counter. There is nothing unusual about its operation, once you realize you need your full weight to push the buttons.
<P><CENTER>
<P><img src="/http://www.fototime.com/405D715FA56A00C/orig.jpg">
<P></CENTER>
<P><P ALIGN=JUSTIFY>
<BR>Aside from the difficulty of operation (how accurately can you time an event when stopping the timer takes such effort?), it’s a remarkable piece if only for its size. Throw in the fact that it has a column-wheel 20-jewel movement from Russia, and it easily occupies a unique slot in any timer collection.
<BR><CENTER>
<BR>~
<BR>~
<BR>~
<hr>
<P><center> For more watch articles by C. Bradley Jacobs, visit:
<P><a href="/http://www.watchcarefully.com"><img src="/http://www.fototime.com/65F8CB439C0B36F/standard.jpg" border=0 alt="Click here to return to the index of articles at WatchCarefully.com"></a></center>

JSN Medis 2 is designed by JoomlaShine.com | powered by JSN Sun Framework