Make no mistake; this is a big, bold watch. Every visible element of the Ref. 1102 Totaliso from German newcomer Riedenschild Original (founded 2004) makes a strong statement—about design and quality.
This model, available in an edition of 999 pieces with black dial, steel case and leather straps, is the first from this new brand that I’ve had the opportunity to examine. I have not been disappointed.
From a design standpoint, the watch hearkens to influences one would expect to find in expensive German watches—round coin-edge case with onion crown and straight lugs, high-quality straps with sporty stitching, a precision deployant clasp—but rather than be pigeonholed with existing brands, Riedenschild Original has chosen to forge their own path.
A well-proportioned black dial with applied silver markers, an underlying guilloche pattern, and crisp printing gives one a sense that this new brand is intent upon making itself a force in the market. Coin-edge bezels on the front and back are combined with brushed case sides and highly polished lug tops and case back. The onion crown has a nicely scalloped edge and engraved Riedenschild logo set into the polished top. The stainless steel double-deployant clasp features brushed surfaces (the better to hide scuffs from normal wear) and an engraved logo. The red stitching of the straps is a nice touch which complements the Riedenschild name on the dial. All of these features, as well as numerous others—the eye-catching white and silver hands, the silver ring around the sub-seconds dial, etc.—attest to a company for whom individualistic design is a strong tenet of the company philosophy.
It is one thing to make a watch look bold and another to build an accurate, reliable timepiece using quality materials. Riedenschild Original has clearly done this.
Only long-term observation would attest to the reliability of the watch, but the fact that it is powered by the famous Unitas 6498-1 hand-wound caliber is reason enough to believe it will be a strong runner and accurate time keeper. The brand’s insistence upon the assembly being done by hand in Germany (and tested to rigorous DIN standards) similarly instills confidence. The choice of materials and care with which they are joined together is an even more impressive testimony. The watch supplied for this review hasn’t any flaw which I can detect. Beneath the expansive sapphire crystal I see nothing but an expertly created dial—clean and dust-free—with hands perfectly set in place. The handcrafted German straps are strong yet flexible, and very nicely stitched. The deployant clasp is ingeniously sprung and hinged in all the right places to make opening and closing smooth. Through the screw-on display back one is afforded a somewhat obscured view of the Unitas movement (a ~25 mm window to a ~36 mm movement). But it is clear that Riedenschild Original has chosen a sturdy movement for their strong package. This is not a highly decorated movement—no Geneva waves or elaborate perlage, but a simple brick-like pattern on the plates with matte finished winding wheels—but one that suits the Teutonic personality of the watch. With its large steel case and sporty stitching, this isn’t meant to be an elegant example of haute horlogerie, but a robust time-only watch boasting singular design.
It is one thing to make a bold, accurate watch using quality materials, and yet another to make it affordable. Remarkably, the Totaliso is offered via the company’s web site at the price of $449 US.
I allowed this watch to be examined by a few aficionados of timepieces and, without revealing the price, asked them to estimate its value. The guesses of these knowledgeable gentlemen ranged from $1500 to $3000. The lowest estimate was more than three times the actual MSRP. For $449 the Totaliso also includes a 24-month guarantee and a lovely hinged wooden box.
Riedenschild Original has recently announced their presence in the United States by opening a New York office. The brand is actively seeking suitable retailers to carry their line which includes various mechanical and quartz timepieces as diverse as sporty chronographs, rugged dive watches, elegant rectangular watches, and timepieces linked to European celebrities and television series. Dr. James Newell, the Director of International Operations stated “We are not interested in huge sales, we are interested in quality and stable growth.” They are also focused on the customer and on providing added value to the purchase of a watch.
Some examples were recently cited by Dr. Newell: “Imagine being a customer who just bought a Riedenschild watch, you get a lotto ticket, this ticket gets pulled and you are invited, all expenses paid to F1 racing in the pit area…or on the set of a famous TV show where you might just get to walk by as action in filmed.” Such are the events being planned by this dynamic new brand. More information on the company, their products, or business opportunities is available via www.Riedenschild.com, which also serves as a direct sales portal.
A few personal notes on the watch I examined:
During the two weeks of observation leading up to the writing of this article, the example provided me has kept time as well as most of the fine mechanical watches I own. I have not had access to a timing machine, but am confident that the accuracy of this watch would meet the standards of most aficionados and collectors of mechanical timepieces.
I was asked by a friend to comment on the overall value of this and could only say how impressed I am with how well Riedenschild Original delivers on their promise of quality. The design of this watch may not exactly suit the taste of all watch buyers, but I cannot find fault with the value or execution of the Riedenschild vision. So many small brands have arrived on the market in recent years that the tendency of some watch lovers is to dismiss them as followers or fly-by-night brands. Many of them are merely assemblers of watches who use parts they have not designed nor custom ordered. Riedenschild appears to be as committed to design and individuality as they are to quality.